Ecuaduro Tour d'Enduro auto-guidé

Distance parcourue : 114 km / 71 miles

Vous commencerez cette aventure de 14 jours/13 nuits depuis notre bureau à Quito, en Équateur. En 1978, Quito est devenu le premier endroit de la planète à être désigné comme site du patrimoine mondial de l'UNESCO pour avoir le centre historique le mieux préservé de toute l'Amérique latine. Quito se trouve sur le plateau de l'Altiplano (le deuxième plus haut du monde) dans les Andes, à 2 900 mètres.  Nous vous suggérons d'arriver un jour ou deux en avance pour découvrir notre magnifique capitale et vous acclimater à la haute altitude avant de commencer le circuit.

Au cours de la première matinée de l'excursion, vous serez équipé de la moto de votre choix et vous recevrez une orientation complète répondant à toutes les questions concernant les coutumes locales, le code de la route, les signaux de conduite, la courtoisie des conducteurs équatoriens, etc. Le trajet du premier jour comprend un échantillon des différents types de routes que vous emprunterez.  Nous vous montrerons comment utiliser votre appareil GPS préprogrammé avec des itinéraires quotidiens et vous recevrez un "Carnet de route" avec des détails et des points d'intérêt pour chaque jour.  Nous vous fournirons une "trousse d'urgence" contenant un téléphone cellulaire prépayé, une pochette de premiers soins, des outils et d'autres articles pour assurer le bon déroulement de votre séjour.  Vous aurez l'occasion de vous familiariser en toute sécurité avec l'asphalte, le gravier sec, les pavés et les petites routes de ferme.

Inti-ñan signifie "chemin du soleil" en langue quechua, et le musée Inti-ñan est situé directement sur l'équateur. Les peuples indigènes vénèrent ce site depuis des milliers d'années. Vous apprendrez comment les peuples anciens ont compris qu'il s'agissait du centre du monde des siècles avant l'avènement de la géographie moderne ou des appareils GPS. Sur la "ligne rouge" marquant l'équateur, vous ferez l'expérience de la gravité, notamment en observant comment l'eau s'écoule dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre ou dans le sens inverse, selon le côté de l'équateur où vous vous trouvez. Vous aurez également l'occasion de voir comment vivent les populations indigènes de l'Équateur en visitant des maquettes de leurs maisons. Ces maquettes vous permettront de mieux comprendre les cultures et les modes de vie que vous rencontrerez en réalité lors de votre passage dans les différentes régions.

En quittant le musée Inti-ñan, vous êtes maintenant officiellement en dehors de la région métropolitaine de Quito et vous avez commencé à rouler dans l'hémisphère nord. Votre deuxième arrêt est pour admirer la magnifique réserve géobotanique du cratère Pululahua, un cratère formé par une éruption volcanique il y a 2 500 ans. De là, vous vous dirigerez vers les pentes occidentales des Andes, pleines de forêts denses et vertes et de montagnes escarpées.

Vous tournerez sur un chemin de terre qui vous mènera jusqu'à la petite ville de Nono. C'est ici que vous commencerez votre trajet dans la réserve biologique de Nono. Ce refuge est connu pour être l'un des endroits les plus riches en biodiversité du monde.   Il abrite le petit ours à lunettes des Andes et des milliers d'espèces d'oiseaux et de grenouilles colorées. 

Arrêtez-vous au Bellavista Bird Lodge, mondialement connu, coupez ton moteur et restez assis en silence pendant quelques minutes afin de voir des centaines d'oiseaux colorés vous entourer et vous offrir un spectacle. 

De là, vous descendrez dans le microclimat de la ville de Mindo - une ville funky de la forêt de nuages avec de nombreux fournisseurs d'activités d'aventure disponibles. Vous pourrez vous arrêter pour visiter un chocolatier organique et voir comment le cacao brut est cultivé et transformé en chocolat gourmet de première qualité.   Ensuite, vous vous enfoncerez encore plus profondément dans la forêt de nuages et vous vous installerez dans une cabine de luxe privée au Terrazas de Dana Boutique Lodge.

Une fois que vous aurez quitté Mindo, vous roulerez sur une des routes pavées les plus pittoresques d'Équateur.  En passant par la ville de San Miguel de Los Bancos, située dans la forêt nuageuse, vous emprunterez une route nouvellement asphaltée, pleine d'incroyables lacets et de virages en épingle à cheveux. Après avoir traversé le rugissant Rio Blanco (une destination populaire de rafting en eaux vives), vous prendrez une route non pavée et venteuse et traverserez une ville sympathique.

Puis vous effectuerez une série de montées pour regagner de l'altitude et pénétrer à nouveau dans la forêt de nuages, cette fois dans une partie encore plus reculée, où des ornithologues du monde entier viennent chaque année à la recherche de nouvelles espèces.Vous redescendrez à nouveau, dans la forêt tropicale, à une altitude d'environ 500 mètres. L'air chaud vous tentera de sauter dans l'un des nombreux lagons aux chutes d'eau cristallines de cette région pour une baignade rafraîchissante. Vous continuerez à traverser plusieurs fermes de café, de chocolat et de fruits "exotiques".  Puis vous commencerez une nouvelle ascension qui durera le reste de la journée..

Il y a des moments où cette route peut devenir un peu boueuse, néanmoins les vues et les parfums sont hors du commun.  Vous traversez une jungle luxuriante, une forêt tropicale, puis vous atteignez le petit village de San Francisco de las Pampas. Ce village est situé dans une région très éloignée et isolée de l'Équateur, et nous sommes normalement accueillis chaleureusement par les habitants.   C'est un endroit charmant où vous pourrez vous arrêter pour déjeuner avant de poursuivre votre ascension.

Depuis Las Pampas, vous continuerez votre ascension, pour finalement atteindre une altitude d'environ 3 700 mètres, dans un climat complètement différent de celui qui régnait quelques heures auparavant. Il fait froid ici, et les vues sont magnifiques.  Des alpagas et des cochons d'Inde sauvages courent en liberté.   Vous franchirez un col de haute altitude et vous aurez l'impression d'être dans un avion dans sa descente finale alors que vous descendrez des lacets avec la ville de Sigchos en dessous de vous. Sigchos existe depuis de nombreux siècles et était une colonie indigène et un poste de commerce bien avant de devenir une ville espagnole dans les années 1530.

Depuis Sigchos, continuez sur les pavés incas qui deviennent une route nouvellement pavée, qui compte parmi les routes les plus pittoresques d'Équateur.   Ce tronçon de route est connu sous le nom de "boucle de Quilotoa" et attire des routards et des aventuriers venus de loin pour son rythme de vie idyllique et ses paysages.

 Vous terminerez votre parcours ce jour-là au confortable Black Sheep Inn.  Ce bed and breakfast géré par la communauté vous donnera immédiatement un sentiment d'appartenance. Profitez d'un dîner équatorien de style maison avec des casseroles et des potées de cuisine (inclus).   

Day 9
Cielo Verde Mashpi Forest Reserve - Rio Intag Coffee Region - Otavalo

Distance Covered :  210 km / 117 miles

After a hearty breakfast served on the terrace at the lodge, you'll head across the dam on the Guayllabamba River and then to the secluded home of our friends Jim and Mimi. 

We have included a fascinating visit to their exotic fruit farm and research center that they operate.  Here they grow over 600 species of exotic fruits, herbs, and spices from all over the world.  Jim and his wife live in a rustic, two-story wooden house. The open structure, which is nestled into the dense forest, serves as a home and a business for Jim’s internationally renowned seed sales. There are bundles of colorful fruits or bags of seeds ready for mailing in every corner of the building. The couple has been living in this very remote location in the middle of the rainforest for over 30 years. When they started, they had to walk six hours through very dense vegetation to reach a dirt road with a bus service, and there was no electricity. For food, they mainly had to grow it themselves. They will have you taste some strange fruits, play a game of identifying spices and herbs from their unique scents, and see firsthand the extensive collection of rare trees and specimens in this fantastic fruity place.

From here, you will ride into the Mashpi Cloudforest Reserve, one of Ecuador's most beautiful forests.  With wild orchids, colorful birds, and pristine waterfalls. It's a ride you will never forget.  You'll do a river crossing over a waterfall - a once in a lifetime experience that you will want to capture with your camera. You'll pass a few muddy spots that will demand all of your attention. You may want to stop a few times so that you can fully appreciate and take in this beautiful part of the world.  It is an area that National Geographic has made famous thanks to their expeditions in this area.

Here, you will enter the Rio Intag Valley -  known for the premium coffee grown in this region.  A do-not-miss stop is at the Nangulvi Hot Springs.  The small complex offers several pools at varying temperatures and a fantastic fixed-lunch restaurant at the edge of the roaring Intag River.

The town of Apuela is home to the Rio Intag Coffee Growers' Association.  You should stop for a quick tour of their coffee drying, sorting, processing, and roasting operations.  You'll want to take a few bags of the coffee home with you.  They export their coffee around the world to exclusive coffee distributors. From Apuela, the cobblestone road climbs in elevation, then descends, then rises again, achieving great views. There are 100+ foot cascading waterfalls and fragrances of pine, eucalyptus, and something that smells like an artificial "rainforest fresh" air freshener - only this is the real thing and so so much better! You will arrive at the Cotacachi-Cayapas National Forest and the Cuicocha (guinea pig) lake - a crater lake thought by the indigenous people to be a tunnel to the Pacific Ocean. 

Dirt and ancient cobblestone roads will peacefully bring you into the city of Otavalo.  Otavalo textiles are famous for their history and quality. The Otavaleños were skilled weavers even before the Incan rule. The Spanish set up workshops to employ the already skilled weavers, and soon, through technological advancements, the Otavalo weavers supplied textiles to most of Latin America.  Today the area has several wool mills and looms and produces high-quality fabrics.  A visit to the Indigenous market at the "Plaza de Los Ponchos" in the center of Otavalo is a feast for your eyes and an opportunity to bring back some great gifts for your friends and family.

Tonight you are in for a treat - the renovated 17th century comfortable and luxurious Hacienda Cusin. Hacienda Cusin was purchased at an auction from Philip III, King of Spain, by the prominent Luna family in 1602. The purchased estate, an abraje or sheep farm, comprises two valleys of Gualaví and La Rinconada, and all the land between the valleys and the lake, approximately 100,000 acres/50,000 hectares, held until Land Reforms in 1945 and 1964. Hacienda Cusin was named for the mountain at the head of the valley of La Rinconada.

The mountain’s name is uncertain, although three possibilities are likely. First, Cusin was the name of an indigenous chief who fought against the Incas in the early 16th century, just before the Spaniards’ arrival. Secondly, a type of white beetle, a cuzo, cut-zo, (Quechua), a delicacy that appears briefly in November.  Cusin’s coat of arms, found on dishware and stationary, is a cuso’s carapace.

You'll enjoy a dinner featuring traditional, local culinary flavors and with a glass of wine in their elegant dining room. Then, settle into your room appointed with the high-quality textiles woven by hand here in Otavalo.

After a fine hacienda breakfast, you'll ride along the shore of Lake San Pablo, where the locals still cultivate the reeds to make baskets and other items. The first stop is in the town of Cotacachi, at the base of the Cotacachi Volcano.  Cotacachi is famous for its high-end leather goods and leather tanneries that still use traditional, vegetable methods of tanning leather.  You can meet a local leather tanner that uses traditional vegetal (not chemical) techniques to create high-quality hides.  There are many quaint shops in the center of town where you can get jackets, belts, wallets, and boots at fantastic prices. The city also has a thriving American and Canadian population where the local coffee and pastry shops serve as meeting places.

The route out of Cotacachi is on timeworn, winding cobblestone roads leading past grandiose farms producing long-stem roses and other cut flowers - one of the major exports of Ecuador.  The paths will cross through a series of small colonial towns with truly authentic fading pastel adobe buildings, iron street lights, and cobbled sidewalks.  Each village along the way will take you even further back in time.  You can stop for a soak and a bite to eat at the Chachimbiro Hot Springs - some of the most healing waters in Ecuador. The chemical composition of their water is high in iron, copper, iodine, and other minerals. The water regulates the digestive system and stimulates the cardiovascular and central nervous systems.

The last little town on this section of cobbled road is Cahausqui, and you'll take a dirt road to enter the Cotocachi-Cayapas Park once again.  This time it will be quite a dramatic entrance.  You will have 30% grades on unimproved dirt roads that will immediately bring you up and over the clouds gaining over 5,000 feet in under 2 miles.  In your rearview mirror, you'll catch a glimpse of the snow-capped Cayambe Volcano, far in the distance.  The road leads first through a magnificent pine forest, and then, once over the tree line, you'll be riding on a ride at over 13,000 feet in elevation.  You'll have tremendous views of the fertile valley below.  It can be a bit chilly up here, so be sure to add another layer.

From the peak, you'll ride down rocky switchbacks and back onto the Western Slopes of the Andes, and back into the green, mossy cloudforest.  As you cross rushing brooks and past waterfalls, there are more opportunities for a swim.  After passing the beautiful mountain pastures, you will arrive in the small village of La Merced de Buenos Aires.  Here is one of our favorite places to eat - in the little wooden restaurant that serves undeniably fresh trout, fished from the icy mountain streams surrounding the town.  The people are amicable here and are always surprised to see visitors from other lands in their small town.

Say adios to our friends in La Merced de Buenos Aires and continue towards the west on unimproved dirt farm roads.  You'll be riding through a series of small mountains that look like pyramids, passing trout fisheries, fruit, and coffee growers. Along this road are two schools that are part of our Pack for a Purpose community initiative.

You briefly join the E10 paved road at the ranger station checkpoint and then continue to descend in elevation. You take a narrow road out of the village of Limonal that leads deep into the western Andes' fertile mountainous

farmlands.  Following the roaring river with waterfalls will bring you through the hamlet of Primavera, and just outside, you will find the entrance to theHacienda Primavera Wilderness EcoLodge. You will spend the night in what we believe is one of the most exquisite wilderness lodges in the entire country.  Its location is truly in the wilderness, and this is a secret hideout for birdwatchers.

The lodge is located within the El Choco cloud forest reserve, which has primary and secondary forests. Guests often see a variety of rare tropical birds such as parrots and toucans. The lush forests surrounding the hacienda contain the most substantial flora and fauna per square meter than anywhere else in the world. The tropical forests are abundant in endemic species, epiphytes, and orchids.

The Ecolodge has large rooms, spacious suites, a gourmet restaurant, a beautiful spring-fed pool, and a working horse and cattle ranch. The staff will be happy to show you around, including the coffee plantation on the premises.

 We've made this day a little shorter so you can relax and enjoy the beautiful Hacienda Primavera to the max.  The hacienda serves up outstanding breakfasts, with flapjacks, French toast, eggs, and fresh coffee grown right there.  So enjoy.

The ride out of the rainforest and jungle on the dirt roads out of Primavera is outstanding.  You will pass several waterfalls and rolling brooks before climbing over a mountain pass in the Golondrina Protected Forest.  You will enter another valley and the small town of El Chical.  You're now on the border with Colombia, and the communities here grow coffee, cacao, and exotic fruits.  It is an idyllic part of the country nestled in a beautiful setting of mountains.

From El Chical, you will follow the Colombian border to the town of Maldonado.  Maldonado is home to the Golondrina Coffee Growers' Association. Here you can get a taste of the coffee and a quick tour of how they grow, process, and roast their coffee grown throughout this region.  In Maldonado, you will see a lot of people with red-stained fingers from picking coffee or raspberries.  The coop’s members have created reforestation programs with the local communities. Its members are encouraged to utilize organic practices to prevent further erosion and soil depletion.  If you want to bring back coffee, that is the rage of coffee snobs around the world - here is another chance!

Once past the town of Maldonado, you begin a climb into the highland moorland (land with low growing shrubs and acidic soil) of the El Angel National Park.  Huge Frailejones (Espeletia pychnophyla), which grow as high as 20 feet and feature a flower similar to the sunflower, fill the Humid Moorlands of El Angel. The plant's leaves are hairy and serve to protect this exotic plant from the frigid climate that hits this region. Other beautiful flowers in this area are the El Angel Flowers, which look very similar to the Frailejones with their hairy leaves and yellow flowers.  In the park, you will go over the Volcan Chiles pass at about 13,500 feet and then ride along the green volcanic lakes. It is a fantastic landscape, unlike any other place on Earth.  

Once down from the Volcan Chiles pass, you follow an ancient cobblestone road to Colombia's border. Right on the border is the Tufiño Hot Springs. As you approach them, you will smell the sulfur from the source pools higher up - which are fenced off because they can be overpowering.  But below, in the springs, the water is hot, and a 10-minute soak will reduce your blood pressure significantly.

You'll take curvy paved roads into Tulcan - the capital of Carchi Province, a border town, just 7 km from Colombia.  Tulcan is famous for its Topiary cemetery - have a stop here to see all the fantastic shrubs carved into animals and figures.  It is amazing.  You might want to sip the local drink called "norteña" at the newly remodeled central market, which serves up other local culinary delights.

Check into the comfortable, centrally located Palacio Imperial, and put on some good walking shoes. You can take a short taxi ride to Colombia's border, where you will change to a Colombian taxi. Have it take you to the Sanctuary de Lajas. This amazing catholic basilica was built after a young girl miraculously saw the Virgin Mary appear before her at this rocky gorge.  The site became a pilgrimage site when it became known to have healing powers. Las Lajas Sanctuary is practically hanging over the abyss, and this is one reason it is considered the most beautiful church in Colombia. It took 33 years (between 1916 and 1949) to finish the present church, and local churchgoers financed it.

From Tulcan -  take the old Panamerican Highway to the picturesque town of El Angel.  Please don't get confused by the name; it is a devilish section of dirt road reserved for experienced riders.  From El Angel, you'll take a paved highway to drop several thousand feet into a new climate.  You'll experience a huge change from the high elevation rainforest - you're now in the very arid desert. 

You take a turn off the Panamerican highway onto another ancient cobblestone road - this is the original highway between Colombia and Ecuador - the one that Simon de Bolivar once traveled.  The road is lined with various cactus, and you'll see herds of goats shepherded by people in the traditional indigenous dress. You will ride through the valley and town of Chota. The population of the town is of African descent.  In the 17th and 18th centuries, their ancestors arrived in Ecuador as slaves for Jesuit mines and sugar cane plantations.  Besides, there was a thriving agricultural trade in coca and cotton.

Today the people still make their living raising sugar cane and animals such as goats and pigs.  They brew a strong alcoholic beverage known as aguardiente.  They are peaceful, fun, and friendly, and distinctive culture in this proud little valley.

This landscape is the setting of the magnificent Hacienda Piman - a place we chose for its unique location and luxurious rooms.  The lodge is a working horse farm that also grows aloe and other medicinal herbs.   The setting is stunning - in the desert surrounded by silver mountains. The pool and dining facilities are top-notch. You'll enjoy a room with magnificent private views.

Today will be another significant change in climate, culture, and terrains. You'll head out of the desert and around the tranquil shores of Laguna Yaguarcocha (Blood Lake). It is here in 1495 that Inca leader Huayna Capac inflicted the final defeat on the local Cara people. Between 20,000 and 50,000 Cara were slain and their bodies dumped into the lake, turning the waters crimson.  The Cara were such highly respected warriors that the surviving were employed as Royal Incan Bodyguards. Today's lake is much more tranquil and lined with Tortora reeds, which are woven to make mats and canoes. The wide road around the lake is also the racetrack where races take place every year. 

Then you'll ride through the historic center of Ibarra - founded in 1606 and known as the "White City" for its whitewashed colonial buildings. Here are stately squares overlooked by grand churches and colonial buildings sheltering garden courtyards. Ibarra's most delicious treats are helados de paila.  This sorbet rivals anything you will find on the streets of Rome or gourmet restaurants in any part of the world. Amazingly, the only ingredients are ice, sugar, salt, and fruit. The original shop of Rosalia Suarez - the originator of helados de paila - is a stop on the tour. You'll want to find your favorite flavor.

South of Ibarra, you'll be riding on beautiful curvy roads through a patchwork of green fields. You'll pass through the town of Zuleta - famous for their needlework. The President of Ecuador often wears shirts that were stitched by the artisans of Zuleta. You'll meet Jaime - a saddlemaker carrying on his family business of creating the finest saddles. It takes him about three months to make each saddle exported to discerning clients around the world.

Towering over the town of Cayambe is the Volcano of the same name - the only place on Earth where the Equator passes over snow.  Cayambe is the regional center of Ecuador's flower industry and is well-known for its bizcochos - a rich buttery cookie.  Once past Cayambe, you will have a chance to stand in two hemispheres simultaneously at the Quitsato equator monument. The monument is a giant sundial, 54 meters across, with a 10-meter high cylinder placed precisely on the Equator. With this sundial, you can not only tell the time but the day of the year.  The guides on the site will show you how to do it.  The monument is in honor of the ancient regional cultures who well understood these techniques of charting celestial movements and knew the position of the Equator, long before "more advanced" civilizations. The museum on site will explain how they were able to do this.

Once in the southern hemisphere, turn onto a tan obscure cobblestone road that will take you up the Cayambe Volcano slopes and into the Coca-Cayambe National Ecological Reserve. This park is one of Ecuador's most protected natural areas, and a special permit is required for entry.

With your advanced reservation, we will secure the permit for you and the vehicle (which is a very complicated bureaucratic procedure you do not want to attempt on your own!). The park contains some 900 species of birds, and we have personally seen wild puma and bear in the park.

Ride into the town of Oyacachi, where the descendants of those who fled the massacre at Laguna Yaguarcocha settled. The town has beautiful hot springs with pools at various temperatures where you can soak and relax. You can have lunch at one of the simple restaurants that can prepare the local trout - from the crystal clear waters that run through here. They cook the trout over a wood fire. Their special traditional cooking techniques that will probably have you say that this is the best trout you have ever had in your life!

From Oyacachi, you'll pass through the more remote regions of the park, through the high paramo terrain. There are a few stunning glacial lakes here that you should stop to see. Many people say this resembles the highlands of Scotland. You may catch photos of the condor or mountain toucan in this area.

You'll end the day's ride soaking your limbs in your private hot spring bath outside your private adobe thatched cabin at the Termas Papallacta  Hot Springs Spa & Resort. There is no better way to relax than staying at this award-winning luxury resort, high in the Andes. After a full day of riding, you will deserve the pampering!

Today is a day for relaxation.  You'll enjoy your luxurious cabin and can take some time to explore the trails surrounding the resort.  
They offer many unique spa treatments and horseback riding in the area.  

Your ride back to Quito starts by riding over the Papallacta pass - the continental divide at 13,400 feet.  You'll ride back into Quito on the same cobbled road that Francisco de Orellana walked on his mission to find the fountain of youth for the King and Queen of Spain.  On the way back up to Quito, have a stop to see the Guapulo Church and stop in the art galleries of this bohemian neighborhood, which hangs perilously off the side of the cliff.

For those looking for additional riding on the last day, we can provide an alternate route to visit the Laguna Muerto Pungo - a beautiful unpaved road through highlands paramo.